New Zealand Sav Blanc

A customer was recently telling me how the quality of New Zealand Sav Blanc’s weren’t what they were. I asked him what wines he had been tasting, and they were all Supermarket own labels, bought in bulk, sloshed around in a tanker all the way from one side of the world to another….then presumably given an extra filtration (which dilutes flavour even more) to remove deposits ….. And then bottled somewhere in one of Europe’s derelict wine factories, where they bottled Liebfraumilch, Vin de Merde etc. in the seventies, and with the technology to match those days. Hardly surprising then?

The Kiwi wine producers should proceed with caution. They have carefully cultivated an image of quality at high prices – and are in danger of blowing it.. As a proud European of 38 years’ standing, and also a born and bred New Zealander, I take particular delight in the way that they have revolutionised the world of winemaking – in the years in the restaurant before I left Wellington my answer to tourists asking about the local wine was “try it by all all means, but don’t get any on your hands”, so I take particular pride in being one of the very first importers of Montana’s finest. Way back in 1987….

But what about the rest of the production other than Marlborough Sav Blanc? I have tasted quite a few beauties lately and many have found their way onto the list. Have a look at the New Zealand pages – the Akarua Pinot Noir is one of the legends of Central Otago, and Yalumba owned Opawa proves that there is a breadth of varietals in the South Island. Then there are the splendid family owned wineries of Geoff and Smith of Koura Bay and Terry and Lindsey Sowman of Tindall Estate. Enjoy the range!

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I arrived in London June 1st 1972. Elton John was on Top Of the Pops that night with Rocket Man, and Don McLean was there with Starry, Starry Night. Great times.....for music! I had read all about London being the ‘Wine Capital of the World”; I just didn’t realise they meant the ‘Third World’. On the first day we visited Harrods Food Hall (where else?) and were lucky enough to be invited to a tasting of Muscadet. Lucky?...I am not so sure. It was malicious stuff reeking of sweaty socks and tasting even worse. We then went to a Bistro and I ordered a bottle of Morgon. I had sold some delicious stuff back home, and was unprepared for the insidious, soupy heavy crap with a cloying ‘hot country finish’. When I queried the provenance the waiter said in a very patronising manner “Of course it is – it says so on the label”. This was my introduction to the quaint habits of the great British wine trade, i.e. The Brewers and the common practice of shipping crap, and then bottling in Blighty with an appellation controlee name. It was downright fraudulent.

Believe it or not, the EU has done some good. As we joined up with Brussels in 1974 they decided in their wisdom that this was pretty damn illegal.

Be thankful for small (large?) mercies, like the New World cold fermentation and new barrel ageing , technologies. And also the ghastly brewers no longer dictate our wine drinking. Except if you buy the industrial rubbish churned out by Rosemount, Lindemans, the sadly ruined Wolf Blass name – and the rest of the Fosters claims to infamy.

“Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried,
With fewer tensions and more tolerance”
Benjamin Franklin

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KAESLER VINEYARDS & WINERY
BAROSSA VALLEY


www.kaesler.com.au

It all started at dinner in Bordeaux, when flying winemaker Reid Bosward was working at the renowned Chateau La Louvière in Graves. He met a Swiss banker with an Aussie wife, and the talk turned to wineries and, hey presto an international group of wealthy wine lovers was put together. They searched regions such as the Napa Valley, South of France, Marlborough and other Australian regions before settling in the Barossa. “Great wine begins in the vineyard”, and Reid found the right spot just outside Nuriootpa. The Kaesler family first planted vines in 1893, and now more than 70% of all the red wine vines on the 55 acre spread are more than 40 years old. The Shiraz thrives on the sandy loam over clay, and the Grenache loves the rockier patches.

A few years after their first vintage Robert Parker discovered the wines:
“One of my favourite Barossa wineries, Kaesler is run with great attention to detail….full-flavoured, impeccable well balanced wines. Those who mistakenly believe all Australian wines are over-the-top fruit bombs will be surprised by the elegance, complexity and finesse of these gentle giants.”

There is only one problem …..They don’t export to Britain, presumably put off by the supermarkets stranglehold on Oz wine sales. I bought these two beauties in Denmark:

KAESLER “STONEHORSE” 2003 £39.50
55% Grenache 37% Shiraz and 18% Mourvèdre
Bottled with no fining or filtration. Lovely powerful berry flavours with beautiful structure and length.
89/100 Parker

KAESLER “AVIGNON” 2003 £49.50
GSM in the same proportions.
Aged in American and French oak. Parker rates it 93/100 and waxes lyrical, “Reminiscent of great Bandol.” Once again no fining or filtration. This has taken considerable time to mature, and is at its peak right now.